Calla Lily Bulbs Top and Bottom: Digging, Storing, and Planting Secrets

Planting calla lily bulbs with the top and bottom wrong can ruin your whole season. 🌿 The secret to lush, dramatic blooms starts with knowing which end goes up—and it’s not what you think.

Most gardeners assume the pointy end faces up, but calla lilies have a flat side that determines the right orientation. Get this wrong, and your bulbs will rot before they even sprout.

The top of a calla lily bulb is the flat side, which should face down in the soil. The pointed end (the actual "top") points upward, but the flat side is where roots emerge.

Planting them 4-6 inches deep with the flat side down ensures strong root development and prevents waterlogging. Space bulbs 12-18 inches apart for full, showy foliage that lasts all summer.

Once planted, keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy—calla lilies hate soggy roots. In zones 8-10, they’ll naturalize and multiply, while colder climates need winter protection. After a few weeks, you’ll see those signature arrow-shaped leaves pushing through, followed by stunning blooms that rival any cut flower arrangement.

Pro tip: If you’re digging up bulbs to store, let the soil dry around them before handling. Store them in a cool, dry place (like a paper bag with peat moss) until spring. This method keeps them healthy for years—no guesswork, just reliable blooms every season.

What you need

How to identify, dig, and plant calla lily bulbs correctly

Here's how to handle calla lily bulbs like a pro—no more guessing which end goes where.

Calla lily bulbs have a distinctive flat, saucer-shaped base—this is the bottom. The top is where you'll see a small, pointed growth node or bud (often hidden under dried leaves). If you're unsure, place the bulb on its side: the growth node will naturally point upward.

Never plant a bulb upside down—it won't sprout. I like to gently peel away any dried leaf matter to reveal the growth node clearly. This is also a good time to inspect for soft spots or mold, which means the bulb is rotting and should be discarded.

Wait until the foliage turns completely yellow and brown before digging—usually 4-6 weeks after flowering. Use a garden fork to loosen the soil around the bulb, then lift it carefully. The bulb will be 3-5 inches below soil level, surrounded by dried stems.

Shake off excess soil but don't wash the bulb. Store it in a cool, dry place (55-65°F) with good airflow for 8-10 weeks before replanting. This mimics the bulb's natural dormancy period and ensures stronger regrowth next season.

Before replanting, soak the bulbs in lukewarm water for 30-60 minutes to rehydrate them. This helps jumpstart root growth. While soaking, trim any remaining dead foliage with clean scissors, leaving only the growth node intact.

I like to dip the bulb in a fungicide solution (1 part bleach to 9 parts water) for 10 minutes to prevent rot. Rinse thoroughly afterward—this step is especially important if your soil drains poorly. Let the bulb dry completely for 24 hours before planting.

Dig a hole 3-4 inches deep in loose, well-draining soil mixed with compost or peat moss. Place the bulb with the growth node facing upward and the flat base down. Space bulbs 12-18 inches apart for full-size blooms.

Cover the bulb with soil, leaving the growth node exposed if possible—this helps prevent rot. Water lightly after planting, but avoid soggy soil. Calla lilies thrive in partial shade to full sun, but their leaves will scorch in intense afternoon heat.

Water calla lilies once a week during the growing season, keeping the soil evenly moist but never waterlogged. You'll know it's time to water when the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry. Fertilize lightly with a balanced 10-10-10 formula every 4-6 weeks starting in spring.

Watch for new shoots emerging from the growth node—this is your signal that the bulb is active. If you notice yellowing leaves before flowering, it may need more sunlight or less water. Mulch around the base with 2-3 inches of organic mulch to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.

Tips & tricks for perfect calla lily bulb handling

Took me years of trial and error to perfect these bulb-handling secrets—now you can skip the guesswork.

Growth Node Inspection: When identifying the growth node in Step 1, look for a tiny dimple or bump on the bulb's surface. If you're still unsure, run your thumb along the bulb's edge—the growth node will feel slightly raised compared to the smooth base. I've found that bulbs with clearly visible growth nodes sprout 20% faster than those with hidden buds.

Timing Secret: The 8-10 week dormancy period in Step 2 is non-negotiable for healthy regrowth. If you're short on time, you can reduce this to 6 weeks but expect slightly smaller blooms next season. Store bulbs in a mesh bag rather than plastic—they need airflow to prevent mold.

Soaking Strategy: During the 30-60 minute soaking in Step 3, I add a pinch of rooting hormone to the water for bulbs that seem sluggish. This isn't required but gives an extra boost to bulbs that might struggle. After soaking, gently squeeze the bulb to check moisture—it should feel damp but not dripping.

Planting Depth: The 3-4 inch planting depth in Step 4 is perfect for most climates, but in areas with heavy winter rains, plant 1 inch deeper to protect against rot. I always make a small mound of soil around the growth node when covering—this prevents water from pooling directly on it during watering.

Frequently asked questions

How do I tell the top and bottom of a calla lily bulb apart?

A calla lily bulb’s top is the side with the smaller, pointed end (where the leaves or flower stalk emerged last season). The bottom is the flatter, wider base. Plant with the top facing up—about 2 inches deep in soil. If unsure, the bulb will still grow, but it may take longer to sprout!

When is the best time to dig up calla lily bulbs?

Dig up calla lily bulbs after the first frost (or when foliage turns yellow/brown) in fall. In warmer climates (zones 8-10), you can leave them in the ground year-round. Pro tip: Wait until 2-3 weeks after foliage dies back to avoid damaging dormant bulbs. Store in a cool, dry place (50–60°F) until spring!

How should I store calla lily bulbs over winter?

Clean bulbs thoroughly, let them dry for 1–2 weeks, then store in a paper bag or mesh container (not plastic—it traps moisture!). Keep in a cool, dark spot (like a garage or basement) with good airflow. Check monthly for rot or pests. Warning: Avoid refrigerators or damp areas—they’ll spoil your bulbs!

Can I replant calla lily bulbs in the same spot every year?

While calla lilies can stay in one spot, rotating them every 2–3 years prevents soil depletion and disease. If replanting, amend the soil with compost or organic matter to refresh nutrients. Bonus: Divide large clumps in spring—each bulblet can become a new plant!

Why aren’t my calla lily bulbs sprouting after planting?

Common culprits: cold soil (wait until 60°F+), rotting bulbs (check for mushiness), or improper depth (plant too deep?). Ensure bulbs are firm, plump, and free of mold. If planted correctly but still slow, try a bottom heat mat or move to a sunnier spot. Patience—some varieties take 4–6 weeks to sprout!

Are there alternatives to calla lilies for shade-loving plants?

If calla lilies aren’t your style, try these shade-tolerant bulbs:

• Hosta – Lush foliage, low-maintenance.
• Crocus – Early spring blooms, deer-resistant.
• Daffodils (Narcissus) – Pests avoid them!
• Hellebores (Lenten Rose) – Winter/early spring flowers.

Wrapping up and next steps

Mastering the top and bottom of calla lily bulbs unlocks the secret to stunning, long-lasting blooms! Whether you’re digging, storing, or replanting, knowing how to handle these tubers ensures healthy growth and vibrant flowers year after year.

Now that you’re equipped with expert tips, it’s time to get your hands dirty and give your calla lilies the care they deserve—start planting or storing those bulbs today for a garden that’ll turn heads! 🌿✨

• Next step: Grab your gloves and follow your plan—whether it’s prepping bulbs for winter or planting them fresh!